Qat and Lobster Tail: A Busy Week

Job Update

8/30/01
Things here in Yemen continue to be busy. Michael's job has been a lot of work and a lot of hassle since they didn't have anyone in his position for quite a while and so he's working all the time.

Jen's job started off a bit rocky but has improved:

"On my first day, AMIDEAST offered me a much lower rate than I had been expecting. Fortunately, they have decided to hire me instead as an consultant at a better rate (but without benefits), and I can be choosy about when I work and set my own hours in a way that I couldn't as a full-time employee.

So, what's my job? I'm the Technology Center Coordinator for AMIDEAST Yemen (http://www.amideast.org), a Washington based nonprofit with the goal of helping (in Yemen) Yemeni students to come study in the US. So basically, these are the best and brightest who are trying to get Fulbright and other scholarships, learn about the different undergrad and grad programs in the States, learn how to use the computer to learn about schools, but also to take the many exams they have to take (GRE, SAT, Test of Eng as a Foreign Language, GMAT, etc.) just to qualify to study at a US institution. They are polite, eager, concerned and generally, really appreciate our help. So I'll help them to use the computers and the Internet, as well as many other Fulbright related things (like helping applicants make sure their files are complete) as well as teaching an SAT prep class. Got my first 31 hours worth of pay, tax free and in cash US dollars, which was nice after not having a job for so long."

Lobster Tails

Because this was Ambassador Bodine's last week in Yemen, we have eaten well! On the 28th, she had her farewell reception at Dar el-Hajar, the Rock Palace that we have photos of on line (see Wadi Dahr section). It was beautiful and came off without a hitch. She departed last night (the 29th), and we were among the six people invited for her last dinner at the Residence. We had lobster tails and homemade mango sorbet and nice wine and salad and just talked and schmoozed until about 11pm. I wondered how we rated this invite, but Michael says she probably just wanted to invite the new folks over and she hadn't had a chance until then and didn't want to let it slip by. I'm now looking into seeing if I can buy some of the home gym equipment she left behind.

Thula and Qat

Today we had a fabulous day in Thula, a very high altitude town about an hour and a half drive from Sana'a. We went with our friend (and FSI language teacher) Mohamed, his fianceé Howeida, Mohammed's friend, Sami, who we've been out with twice already, and Sami's wife, two sons (adorable! 1 1/2 years old and 4 years old), and nephew, Walid. Thula is beautiful and we'll have photos of it online soon. After climbing the mountain for the view, Sami's friends in Thula had us over for a traditional Yemeni lunch. Serious hospitality--the food was just endless! We completed the Yemen experience by trying our first qat chew in their house.

Qat (pronounced by Yemenis "gaat") for those of you who have not heard of it, is the tree Catha edulis. It is a mild narcotic taken by chewing the young leaves of the tree. Yemen is basically known for two things by most people: kidnappings where they treat you really well, and qat. Most Yemenis spend the afternoon chewing (the Arabic verb actually means "to store"), though many modern Yemenis disdain it. If you have ever seen photos of Yemen before, you have probably seen the men looking like they have a tennis ball in their cheek--that's the qat they have "stored." Reports vary on the effects of qat, but most indicate that it focuses the mind, keeps you awake and alert, reduces appetite, and first makes you talkative, then introspective and quiet. There is some debate in the medical community, but most agree that it is not physically addictive, although it may have some long-term negative health effects for the teeth and stomach. Yemenis who go to other countries where it is not available do not suffer any physical withdrawal symptoms, but miss it as a major part of their social life and identity. (Qat is a controlled substance in the US, but it is available in Britain, where the Yemeni community imports it from Ethiopia.)

Interestingly, the exact same legend is told about the origin of qat and of coffee. (Both plants were introduced to the Western world from Yemen but are believed to have originated in Ethiopia.) The legend is that one day a shepherd in the hills of Ethiopia noticed that his goats were [coffee: dancing about]/[qat: standing around quietly and seeming happy] after eating the [berries]/[leaves] of a certain bush. The shepherd became curious and tried the [berries]/[leaves] himself. He found that the [berries]/[leaves] kept him awake and allowed him to worker harder and longer, and thus was [coffee]/[qat] discovered.

Neither of us felt any effects this time, but we have been told that the first time often does nothing. Michael will almost definitely try it again, probably with some of the contacts he needs to cultivate for work. Jen's not entirely sure, because the pile of leaves in her mouth made her gag at times (especially when she tried to get the whole mess out again when she gave up on it). But we both felt that we couldn't come to Yemen and not try qat. We are hoping to leave without being kidnapped, so we have to at least have half of the Yemen experience...

Seriously, though, we feel really lucky that we've been hooked in with a lovely group of Yemenis, thanks to our friend/FSI professor Mohammed Rahawi. This is a side of things that you don't see if you only stay within the Embassy community. This family is very well educated, hard working, many have lived in the US at various times and they speak excellent English. They are pretty much Mohammed's family, so they come with "references." Sami's wife is going to take us to the suq tomorrow to help us do some shopping (so we get a good price on things) and show us the fun spots we might not find otherwise.

It's actually starting to feel like we could spend two full years here. Of course, we are coming to the States for a vacation in just one more week...



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